Azores Trails Fest 2023 – What It Is and How the 2nd Edition Went

The Azores Trails Fest It is an annual event, which had its first edition in 2022, on the island of São Jorge.

It's an event promoted by the Azorean Government and, it aims to showcase the Azores islands from a perspective not only focused on nature tourism and trekking, which is the region's standout product, but also through other small activities and interactions with the local people and their culture.

To the event, are envited, usually, tour operators, who perform or wish to perform in the Azores. However, many activities also aim to involve the participation of the local community..

So, in 2023 we were honored to be invited, to the second edition of this Festival,in the Island of Graciosa, one of the few places in the World, where several designations of UNESCO (Azores World UNESCO Geopark, Biosfera Reserve and RAMSAR locations), between the 4th and 7th of October.

In this article, we will tell you everything!

Day 1 – Arrival and Official Opening of the Azores Trails Fest

After a journey of several hours, typical of those who venture beyond just São Miguel and Terceira, we finally arrived at the island of Graciosa, also known as Ilha Branca ( White Island) due to the trachyte (a volcanic rock, but white in color) and also because of the local toponymy, such as Serra Branca, Pedras Brancas, and Barro Branco.

The second smallest island in the archipelago, with 61 km² and just over 4,500 inhabitants, was waiting for us.

To welcome us was one of the members of the Equipa do Núcleo de Apoio às Atividades de Turismo de Natureza, da Direção Regional do Turismo, the "peculiar" Paulo Ourique, who would prove to be a true ambassador not only of the Azores but also of his beloved island Terceira.

The Equipa do Núcleo de Apoio às Atividades de Turismo de Natureza, da Direção Regional do Turismo is made up of several members, whom we had the opportunity to meet over the days. Their role is the maintenance of certified trails on all the islands. The mentor of this team is Dr. Paulo Garcia, a proud Picaroto and a member of the Management Structure for the Sustainability of the Azores Tourist Destination (Açores DMO).

The festival opening started around 6:00 PM with a small ceremonial event that included the participation of Regional Secretary for Tourism, Mobility, and Infrastructure of the Azores – Dr. Berta Cabral, the Regional Director of Tourism – Dr. Rosa Costa, and the Mayor of Santa Cruz da Graciosa – Dr. António Reis,among other important guests.

 

Next, they served us a small buffet with snacks, juices, wine, and the delicious Queijadas da Graciosa, as it was necessary to replenish energy for the first hike of the festival – a night hike in the PR03 GRA – Baía da Folga.

The goal was not, of course, the stunning views of this short hike, but rather to sharpen our senses for the region's nocturnal wildlife, where the calls of the shearwaters stand out in the spring and summer.

After the hike, we had a small workshop on Night Photography led by the members of AFAA – Azores, where we had fun experimenting with different types of exposure.

 

The obvious thing would be to think that we would return to our accommodation, as the night was already late. But no. In the Azores, nothing is obvious, and surprises are around every corner. Waiting for us in the central square of the town of Luz were two giant pots of warm caldo verde soup, tea, and snacks. This is something simply magical and of phenomenal simplicity.

 

Day 2 – The PR04 GRA – “From the Vineyards to the Sea” and Folklore Festival

If the first day ended with a hike, the second would begin with another hike.

The PR04 GRAnamed “Das Vinhas ao Mar” (from the vineyards to the Sea)It already says a lot about what you'll see on this trail... but not everything.

In its almost 7 km long the first part of the trail evolves in vineyards,divided into volcanic stone corrals. We stopped near one of the many windmills that mark the landscape in Graciosa,where Ana Teixeira enriched the participants' knowledge, explaining its architecture, its functioning, and shared the cereal history of Graciosa,, which was once known as the "Azorean Barn".

 

Half away on the hike, and we arrive at Ponta da Barca Lighthouse, where you can admire the famous Whale Islet.

From here, the landscape changes completely, and it feels like we're on an entirely different trail. We enter into volcanic landscape, raw and beautiful, as only these landscapes can be

Has we walk in protected landscape, we followed the Technician Carlos Picanço (From Graciosa Natural Park)  in a single file to avoid trampling on native plants.

 

Finally, we arrived to Barro Vermelho, where we finished the trail and continued to the Multiusos, where a delicious “Molho à pescador” was waiting for us, prepared by Sr. Mário Melo and his grandson Danilowell watered with the island wines.

After lunch, we had a folklore demonstration from the island, featuring a performance by the Grupo Folclórico da Casa do Povo da Praia, and lots of dancing.

 

We had dinner at a restaurant right in the center of Santa Cruzwhere we also kicked off the festivities and made individual presentations.

Here, we discovered that we were surrounded by "dinosaurs" of the tourism industry in Portugal, such as Luis Dias da Papa-Léguas, o Luis Coelho da Portugal A2Z e o Fernando Completo da TRYPortugal.

 

Day 3 – Fam Trip “Azores Trails Fest”

As is the case with our trips to the islands, here too we have a day dedicated to a road trip to visit the most iconic places. Mónica Gregórioa technician at the Graciosa Tourism Office, was our guide for the day.

The day began with a visit to Porto Afonso. A volcanic landscape awaited us with a unique characteristic. On the coastal cliffs, "shelters" were carved by fishermen to guard their boats.. A blend of natural and human architecture, making this place a must-visit spot.

 

Next, we continued our journey to one of the must-do activities in Graciosa – a visit to the Associação de Criadores e Amigos do Burro Anão. We stayed there a good couple of hours, listening Sandra Santosabout the reason for creating this association, as well as the characteristics that distinguish this donkey from the others. After a long session of selfies and cuddles with these curious animals, we continued our journey through the Volcano Route

 

A short stop and walk to circle around the Caldeirinha de Pêro Botelho and check Graciosa Wind Park, before the promised stop at Termas de Carapacho.

The Termas de Carapacho are hot springs, making them ideal for conditions like rheumatism. Entrance is free (at least for now), and right in front, you can find two beautiful natural pools in case hot waters aren’t your "thing."

 

After lunch, the destination was S. Mateus (Praia), one of the most well-known parishes on the island. Here, a rigid inflatable boat was waiting to take us to the Praia Islet. An adventure to get in and out of the boat, but we managed. Once on the islet, Dr. André Espinola (Director of Graciosa Natural Park), gave us a tour about the importance of this islet and the various local initiatives that take place there to preserve seabird species that nest there, particularly the  Paínho de Monteiroa seabird endemic to the Azores. As it is a protected area, visits to the islet are highly restricted.

With the swell not letting up, we had to shorten the visit in order to leave the islet safely.

 

However, the best was yet to come. A visit to the factory of Queijadas da Graciosa, and soon appears Sr. Mário Melo inviting us to try their homemade aguardente. Soon, a feast was arranged, which reached the ears of Sr. José, a neighbor of Mr. Mário. Can you guess what happened next? Of course. Another invitation to try the house specialty. This time, it wouldn't be aguardente, but rather Madeira Wine,, which we have never tasted.

 

Feeling warm and cheerful, we returned to the accommodation to have dinner.

After dinner, some of the guests (us included) still went to the Associação dos Músicos da Ilha Brancawhere the evening extended into the early hours of the morning, in the company of Mr Valdemiro and Professor Helder.

Day 4 - PR05 GRA – Subida ao Cume

The last day of the Azores Trails Fest was then beginning, much to our sadness. However, the best was saved for last. We met up with others who had signed up for the hike, and then we took the bus to the town of Luz, where the trail would begin.

The warnings had been given, but nothing prepared us for the 3 km climb with a rather steep incline. Nonetheless, we went ahead. About 50 people, each trying to find their own pace (including us after the late night), with the invaluable help of all the members of the Equipa do Núcleo de Apoio às Atividades de Turismo de Natureza.

 

 

The landscapes began to unfold as we started to reach the top. Breathtaking 180º views with the island at our feet.

However, even before we reached Furna do Enxofrewe made a stop at the picnic park of Recreio da Caldeira Forest Reserve where a beautiful picnic was waiting for us. Refueled, we then walked about 750 meters until we reached the Furna do Enxofre. We went to the visitor center to learn how the Furna do Enxofre , was formed, as well as the other smaller ones, named Maria Encantada e Abel.

Important Note: There is no access to drinking water or food throughout the trail, so make sure to come prepared. Access to the Furna do Enxofre may be restricted due to CO2 concentrations, but you'll only know when you get there. However, you don’t need to hike to visit the Furna do Enxofre, as there is a road that leads directly to it

After, we climbed down 183 steps of the Tower,, that by itself is already an experience, we entered Furna do Enxofre. The concert of Violas da Terra. was already taking place. However, we were not prepared for the colossal size of the Furna. Its size is unbelievable, and even more so when you consider that everything is natural. We sat for a moment to enjoy the concert before taking a short walk along the boardwalk.

 

After the concert, we returned to the trail, where we passed by the recently inaugurated statue of "The Hiker", which marked the begining of Azores Trails Fest. A wood sculpture inspired in “Maria Encantada” which aims to honor all the hikers who traverse the trails of the Azores. Fragments of tree trunks were used in a repurposing of local materials, perfectly blending into the magnificent landscape of the Caldera. The statue was created by José João Dutra.

Furthermore, the hike goes on to Furna da Maria Encantada e a Furna do Abel, both magnificent, until we finally reached Luz, where the bus was waiting to get us back to our accmmodation.

 

Thus, although our accommodation had a pool, it was just a few meters away from Poça da Salemawe, along with a few others from the group, went for a refreshing swim to celebrate an amazing day

In the evening, another wonderful meal and many toasts to yet another edition of the Azores Trails Fest .

 

Day 5 - Free day and departure

Since our flight was only in the late afternoon, some of the group members took the opportunity to visit the Monte da Nossa Senhora da Ajuda.

Climbing this hill is worth it not only for the views but also because it has a unique feature – a bullring inside a volcanic crater. Yes, you read well, in Graciosa,, the bullring is inside a volcano..

 

In the afternoon, we went for a walk in Santa Cruz to find some more natural pools,, before the last group lunch.

However, the activities didn’t end with lunch. Once again, a surprise was on the way, and we were invited by Mr. Juvenal to taste their aguardentes and island liqueurs. After lunch, one last feast.

 

And that was our first participation in the Azores Trails Fest. We say "first," because we will certainly return. It was four superb days, with exceptional people, that made for an amazing experience.

n addition to the people already mentioned in this article, we would also like to thank the Equipa do Núcleo de Apoio às Atividades de Turismo de Natureza who made this adventure even more spectacular (Daniela, Ana Rita, Adriana, Sérgio, Rodrigo, Dário, Toste), to our Amateurs Photografers(Gabi, Francisco e Zé), to our very talented Urban Sketchers Alexandra e Bruce, and by last but not least the outstanding videografers António Araujo and Paulo Pereira.